A Journey Where the Sound of Surf Blesses You & History Breathes: Ōfunato Onsen Part 2

Welcome to Part 2 of my autumn travelogue through the land of sea and mountain blessings in Tōhoku, focusing on Ōfunato Onsen.

One of the highlights of this trip, at Ōfunato Onsen, was indulging in the fresh bounty of local seas—especially the “dancing abalone” cooked right before your eyes—set against the backdrop of a vast seascape stretching before you. The photo of the abalone being warmed on its shell perfectly captures the essence of this journey. It makes you feel the richness of nature, and the joy of receiving its gifts.

Arriving at Ōfunato Onsen, where travel weariness is soothed

After a first day of touring the beautiful scenic spots along the Rikuchū Coast, I arrived at my lodging, Ōfunato Onsen. The building, perched on high ground, is clean and exudes an atmosphere that seems to gently envelop the weariness of travel.

Stepping into the entrance, your eyes immediately catch an unobstructed view over the wide bay. This open, liberating lobby is the perfect space to welcome arriving travelers. Though modern, the lobby and interior interiors still maintain a calm ambiance befitting a seaside inn.

After checking in, I looked out from my room’s window—and there awaited the same striking view first glimpsed from the lobby. Floating buoys dot the quiet sea, and in the distance I could clearly see the breakwater—reminding me that this is indeed the abundant coast of Sanriku. As evening descended, a large ship sailed across the bay. Illuminated, it cast an ethereal glow across the placid sea.

Dinner of Seafood to Savor the Blessings of Sanriku

And then came dinner—another major pleasure of the trip. Facing the Sanriku Sea, Ōfunato Onsen delivered just what one hopes for: fresh seafood.

One standout was the 煮兜 (kabuto-ni, or “helmet-head” fish dish, here made from marlin).
For sashimi, they served live abalone, fresh red-fleshed fish, white-fleshed fish—an opulent assortment. The firm, springy texture of the abalone is a luxury only possible when it’s freshly harvested.

What truly drew my eye was the dancing abalone—cooked right in front of me. Heated over the flame while the scent of the sea lingered, the abalone is a performance in itself. Its flesh is both springy and tender; the more you chew, the more the ocean’s flavor overflows.

Autumn’s signature in this meal was also present: grilled sanma (Pacific saury). The fragrant, crispy-skinned fish was served with grated daikon and ginger for a refreshing touch. Steaming white rice and tsumire-jiru (soup with fish dumplings) rounded off the seafood feast in a comforting way.

A Dining Table Not Just of the Sea, but of Richness

While abalone and fresh sashimi starred in the dinner, additional dishes gave a sense of Sanriku’s abundance.

Hot, freshly fried tempura—shrimp and seasonal eggplant and vegetables—was included. The batter was light and crisp. This way, the meal let one taste not just the gifts of the sea but also those of the land: a truly fulfilling table.

The Blessing of the Sea Breeze in the Hot Springs: Soothing Travel Fatigue at Ōfunato Onsen

After savoring the sea’s bounty, it was time for one of the trip’s main aims—the onsen.

Passing through a deep-navy noren with the character 湯 (yu, “hot water”), I rinsed and cleansed my body. The hot spring at Ōfunato is of the sodium–calcium chloride type (Na · Ca – Cl spring). It warms you to the core and has high retention. Its healing properties extend beyond the usual—nervous pain, muscle pain, joint pain—to cuts, burns, chronic dermatitis, sensitivity to cold, and even chronic gynecological disorders. It gently heals the entire body tired from travel.

The open-air bath with views of the sea was especially blissful: the sea breeze felt pleasant, and in those moments you could forget the clamor of daily life altogether.

Reflecting on History: The Monument to Ishikawa Takuboku’s Visit

Just before arriving at the onsen, I made a stop at a monument marking the place “Ishikawa Takuboku So-yū no Chi” (the place Takuboku once visited). The monument stands quietly surrounded by nature, and beside it sits a whimsical ceramic owl that catches the traveler’s eye. Through contemplating the era when Takuboku stayed in this region, one can sense the poetic sensibility of his worldview.

Thus, “A Journey Where the Sound of Surf Blesses You & History Breathes: Ōfunato Onsen Part 2” draws to a temporary close—though the journey itself is not over.

Get ready for the next installment! "Autumn Travelogue: Ofunato Onsen Part 3" will take you on a journey of confronting the reality of the tsunami and finding a path toward the future. Don't miss it!

PART1 is available below.