Foggy & Chilly in SC

Left Butler Island on a chilly and foggy Sat. morning. Those warm clothes feel good.  Norma had the air horn ready and Jay stood watch on the bow as we made our way south.  We traveled  on the side of the channel to stay out of the way of the faster bigger boats who travel from buoy to buoy right in the middle of the channel. The Coast Guard even called to check on us by Rabbit & Hare Islands south of Georgetown, SC to be sure we knew we were outside the channel and to be sure we were aware of the shallow waters to our port side. They were concerned and doing their job.

It was a day of strong currents and gusty winds after the fog was blown away.  We were able to roll out the genoa sail to add to our forward progress at different times of the day. Finally stopped to anchor at MM 452 at Whiteside Creek at low tide.  Here you see the shore behind our anchored boat at low tide.  You can just see the top of the mast of another anchored boat over the grasses (in the middle of the photo).

Now you see the same view taken at high tide. The grasses and bank are all but covered with water. You can see the whole sailboat anchored instead of just its mast top. The same view looks very different with different tides so we really have to watch the charts and know where we are traveling especially on the creeks with shoals, bends and no day marks.

Looking like the South

I was able to take a few early morning walking laps around Barefoot Landing before we cast off the lines and left about 7AM with just enough light to see.  We left early to catch the current taking us south.  As we motored south on the Waccamaw River, the shores were lined with cypress trees.  The tide was out so their roots were exposed. The cypress tree has one main root that goes straight down as well as the ones we see.  It looks to me like the trees are tiptoeing in the water.

With the north winds that brought some cooler air we were able to sail for a few hours, a real treat after all the motoring we have been doing.  We sailed past many cypress trees whose branches were draped with hanging moss.  While it rarely kills the trees it lowers their growth rate by reducing the amount of light to a tree's own leaves.  The low growing light green plants grow in abandoned rice paddies.  Rice was once a major export crop for the local plantations.

We anchored behind Butler Island and decided to warm up the cabin and bake some cookies.  Can you tell what ingredient I forgot to bring along? Yes, the baking soda!  Since I had them mixed, I baked them anyway.  Jay was forgiving and ate them anyway with a glass of milk.  

Lots of "Firsts"

Left St. James before sunrise today to catch some current to take us south further down the ICW.  We continue to marvel at the beautiful homes along the waterway.  Their long piers show you how shallow it is along the shorelines so we follow the day marks and stay where the channel is deepest.  The birds are happy for all these perches especially all of these pelicans.  They always bask facing the wind so their feathers are not ruffled up and today had the warm sun on their backs. (Click on the picture to enlarge).

 

It seems that things always get busy at the bridges. Here you see wind and current against us, docks along both shores, marinas, restaurants, boat ramps, oncoming boat traffic and even a wide barge being pushed by a tug coming toward us. It keeps us thinking about how to best get our boat to the other side of the bridge safely. This was even a high 65' bridge that did not need to open to let us pass which made it an easier situation.

As we passed by Little River Inlet we saw the Coast Guard putting in the piling for a new day mark.  Day marks are the red and green numbered signs on tall wooden pilings along the channel - red on right (starboard) returning so green markers are kept on the left or port side. We have passed many day marks but this is the first time we saw one being put in.

The "Rockpiles" is the name for about twenty miles of the ICW between Mile Markers 347-365 because both sides of the narrow channel are covered with hard rocks just like in this photo.  Commerical vessels like tugs and barges also travel this route. You would rather not meet them in the Rockpiles since there is not always enough room to move over and let the barge go by.  Well, we did hear on the radio a barge was northbound toward us.  With the wind and current against us, our forward speed was slowed but we were close to getting past some rocks where we could move to the right side.  The tugboat captain radioed that he would hold back and we should power through. It was pretty exciting for a few minutes but all turned out well. Meeting a large barge in the Rockpiles was another first!

After passing through another swing bridge we arrived at Myrtle Beach's Barefoot Landing Marina which is part of an entertainment center with shops and restaurants. The next place we could anchor for the night was 25 miles ahead and with 15 kt winds and strong currents against us, we would arrive close to dark which did not seem like a good idea. So here we are.  Three marina stops for three nights in a row is a first for us.  We usually stay at a marina once a week or so. We will have to anchor out for lots of nights to come to get back in our normal routine. Captain Jay is on the dock at Barefoot Landing where we are tied up with other visiting  boats.

Since we are here and the boat is safely tied up at the dock, we had a nice long walk and had dinner out.  We also found some large yellow/gold trumpet shaped flowers by my shoulder in the photo.  We had not seen these before -another first. We will continue through more Rockpiles tomorrow  and  will be happy to have less "firsts" than today.

Lots of nice folks in new places

Our friends, Duncan and Laura, gave us a wonderful tour of Wilmington, NC's revived waterfront,  They drove us to a scenic land view of Snows Cut and its swiftly flowing current since we would be traveling through the Cut on Wed. in our boat.  We all visited their friends, Bill and Sara, for dinner at their Wrightsville Beach House. That Southern hospitality came shining through.  We had a super visit.

We visited Laura's beehives in her backyard.  We learned how she extracts the honey from the hives and received a jar of honey to enjoy on the rest of our trip. She hopes to add two more hives soon. 

Duncan shared his woodworking shop with us.  He has projects planned for the wood on the floor in front of him.  Needless to say, Duncan and Jay had lots to talk about.

Wed. morning we headed on down the ICW through Snows Cut with the current against us. We normally motor about 6 knots but were only able to travel 3kts over the ground against the current. However, as we exited the Cut and entered into the Cape Fear River we then were traveling with the current and able to travel 9 kts over the ground.  The current for each part of the ICW channel is determined by its closeness to the nearest inlet from the Atlantic Ocean.  Snows Cut current was determined by the Carolina Beach Inlet and Cape Fear River's current depends on the Cape Fear Inlet.  It can be tricky planning what the current should be for the particular part of the ICW we plan to travel. We stopped for the night at St. James Marina at MM 315, part of a new large residential development called St. James Plantation. Their $1.00/ft dockage fee is a bargain to encourage boaters to come and visit the new facilities.

We met David & Kathy from Canada back in the Dismal Swamp and again in Elizabeth City where Kathy broke her ankle with a bad step off their boat onto a dock. We met them again at St. James and were glad to see they are continuing on their trip south even though they are on three legs instead of four.  They remind us of how important it is that both of us need to be able to do each job on the boat in case one of us can not.

Wrightsville, NC is a lively place

How about this for showing personality? This was Norma's favorite waterfront house along the ICW so far. The color, all of the little touches and all on its own peninsula at the end of a narrow road.

The folks in trawlers really are in heaven on the ICW since you must motor most of the time.  However, we did have wind and could sail for a few hours before the Figure Eight Bridge.  There was even an O'Day 32 sailing just ahead of us for Jay to race a bit. The couple on that boat were from Washington state, had picked up the boat in Annapolis and were delivering it to their son in Charleston. We are amazed that almost every boat has a story that makes it unique.

Arriving in Wrightsville at 3PM  on beautiful Sat. afternoon we found a bedlam of activity waiting for the bridge to open.  There were boats waiting to go through on both sides of the bridge, fishing boats milling all around, paddleboats and kayaks mixed in.  They all seemed used to the bustle but we were a bit nervous.  The bridge did open right on the hour and everyone got where they were going.  There were thirty boats anchored in Bank Channel between the ICW and the ocean on Sat. night but we look lonely above by Sunday morning.  They all headed on south and we are staying. We went ashore for a long walk along the ocean.

Surf fishing were a couple who retired from Annapolis and couldn't be happier living in Wrightsville.  She took this picture for us with the Masonboro Inlet behind us. Lots of families were  enjoying the beach, a few swimming, some surfing and many enjoying a walk like us.

Getting warmer as we continue our walk around the point and back over the dunes.  Back on the boat we met a couple from Australia who are also headed to the Bahamas.  They came to the US to buy a boat and sail the eastern US coast before sailing their boat home to Australia.  They are on a five-year plan. They said that boats in the US cost half of what the boats would cost in Australia and the cruising area has so many more anchorages and places to visit that it made their journey worth while. We will move to the Seapath Marina here in Wrightsville Beach tomorrow to do shore chores and visit with Jay's friends from work.  We plan to continue south on Wed.

The highs and the lows of boat traveling

Well, the rain storm moved on and we had a great trip ashore to Fish Tales for a delicious dinner out.  From the dinner deck you can see Priority anchored in Town Creek behind me, the closest boat to me. Little did we know that the evening would end so differently.

By 9PM the winds were blowing 20-25kts with gusts higher.  At midnight we decided to reduce our windage by removing the window in the dodger, the side weather cloths and the transition piece between the dodger and bimini.  However, we kept getting closer to the boat anchored behind us which meant our anchor was slowly dragging through the soft mud bottom.  Everything is a little more dramatic in the dark of the night!  We reset the anchor twice about 1AM and again at 3AM.  Being positive, we must say that it was not raining, we did have warm clothes and we did have our "marriage saver" headphones to help us.  Captain Jay surprised me with this camera shot or I would have mustered up a more photogenic smile.  By 5AM Thursday we were confidant that our anchor was holding again and the adrenaline had decreased enough that we did sleep for a few hours. The highest gusts of the night registered at 38 kts.  We stayed for the day to recover and let the winds blow through.

Friday morning brought calmer winds and a beautiful day so we headed on down the ICW past Morehead City.  We did get a good look at the other boats headed south because they all travel faster than Priority.  The ICW is really like a I-95 highway for marine vessels and at this time of year the southbound lanes are full. The western shore is lined with beautiful waterfront homes with no two alike, all interesting with architectural differences and landscaping designs.  The eastern side is the shallow waters of the sounds with birds and sand islands. We passed through Camp LaJeune, the US Marines military reservation.  The osprey helicopters were flying about and the Marines were carrying out exercises ashore when we anchored below in Mile Hammock Bay for the night.

Mile Hammock Bay is a dredged basin belonging to the US Marines at Mile Marker 245 of the ICW.  It is available as an anchorage if not being used by the Marines but we could not go ashore. All of the 20 boats anchored here with us tonight will be headed on down the ICW with us tomorrow morning.

Riding out the Rain & Wind in Beaufort NC

Our new dodger allows us to keep the main hatch open during this rainy and windy weather while we are anchored in Town Creek.  Before we had to close the hatch tight to keep dry inside the cabin. All of the rain has helped wash off the salty film that was covering everything after our windy days coming south with splashes over the deck.

Our first rainy day aboard in two weeks although we had rain at night in Elizabeth City.  Baking raisin bread and some sandwich bread for days to come.  The towel over the steps catches a few drops as the driving rain tries to bounce inside as the boat swings back and forth at anchor. Ready for the oven.....

Captain Jay is backing up the computer and doing techie things he doesn't usually have time to do when we are traveling.  I also had time to look for things I knew were aboard but had not found like the chocolate chip cookies and the rice.

A few moments to ponder the top five projects we are glad we did in prep for our trip.  Jay's #1 is the anchor, chain, windlass and wash-down pump set up.  It makes him happy each time we raise and lower the anchor.  Our #2 is the bimini and dodger -perfect for sun, rain and wind protection. #3 is the computer integration and navigation software - the picture of the chart above shows our "green" boat at anchor in Town Creek here in Beaufort.  The darker blue track shows the path we traveled to get here.  The position of the green boat marker confirms if we are holding tight at anchor or dragging along the bottom, but with the new anchor, etc. we have not moved after we have set the anchor.

 

# 4 is a little superficial but keeping the cook happy is no small thing!  The nesting pots and pans (some are on the stove top -bread dough is rising in one) we bought as a Boat Show special two years ago are made for our boat. They have cooking lids and plastic lids to put things in the refrigerator. Lids have draining holes to use as a colander. A removable and sturdy handle allows the pots to nest for compact storage.  They are small enough to wash in our sink and all fit in the open white cabinet behind the stove. We use them every day. Prior to these I brought the old pans from home so these are a very nice upgrade. It worries me that galley expectations go up with equipment upgrades!  #5 is the new refrigeration and freezer box.  Ice cubes are a treat. The funnel behind me in the photo is how we fill the ice cube tray once it is in its position alongside the freezer box.  Works beautifully and only consumes 25 Ah of power per day even while making ice.  The insulation of the box is the secret for low power consumption which was the first "to-do" item on our renovation list.

Visiting Beaufort NC

Stopped to anchor about 2PM Monday which was early for us.  Decided to stay here at Cedar Creek on Adams Creek rather than go closer to Beaufort,NC and arrive in late afternoon. With nasty weather moving in we were thinking the anchorages around Beaufort may be busy with boaters like us looking for a place to wait out bad weather. Cedar Creek is beautiful and we had it all to ourselves.  We did some little boat jobs and had some dinner.  Jay said it was a good dinner but that was because we had homemade biscuits; he thinks that makes any dinner good.  Over my right shoulder you can see a large sailboat on land which is someone's dream as they work to fix it up.

Today we traveled on down Adams Creek and met our first tug and barge coming around a bend. We saw several large boats along the way grounded and washed up on the banks from Hurricane Irene we assume.

Anchored in Town Creek and landed the dinghy at the Town boat ramp and docks. There seemed to be room for all the boaters who needed a place to anchor.  We explored  main street and visited the local museum to learn of local Pirate Blackbeard and his final fate with Queen Anne's Revenge. Interesting exhibits on recent efforts to resurrect local shipwrecks and much about the local fishing industry.

Across the street, we watched craftsmen building a beach surf rescue carriage and boat for future museum exhibits. Jay liked to look from the balcony but really wanted a closer look at their tools and what they were doing. Huge clouds came rolling in as headed back to the boat and raindrops started to fall.

Traveling South in NC

Shore chores kept Friday busy. We got 5 gal diesel as insurance that we would not need it, did a load of laundry, took the courtesy van to the grocery store, and visited the local hardware stores.  Enjoyed walking probably 4-5 miles to get all of this done.  We left the lights of Elizabeth City behind us before dawn on Saturday to catch more favorable winds across Albemarle Sound.

Jay caught sunrise as we sailed south on the Pasquotank River past the US Coast Guard Air Station, the home of Coast Guard Aviation. The  cool morning had us wearing our winter hats and coats.

The US Navy Blimp Hangar looked pretty big. We'll have to visit on a Wed. next time and take a tour. We had a great sail across Albemarle Sound but then had to motor as winds came head on again.  We wanted to get through the Alligator River Bridge before gusty winds could stop it from opening.  We had a wet ride through choppy waters down the Alligator River to anchor for the night.

You can see how we bring the computer out in  the cockpit or put it up under the dodger to get a closer look at the charts as we travel along. So far we have found the charts to be pretty accurate at placing our boat on the waters. For larger sailing areas, we just leave the computer inside the cabin at the nav. station.

Fog along the banks of the Alligator Pungo River Canal was interesting as we entered at Mile Marker 105 in the cool of Sunday morning.

We have a new camera for this trip so we have been trying to practice with lens and different settings.  We liked this reflection of the canal bank with the perfectly flat water surface.

We must be getting farther south since we saw our first shrimp boats docked along the Goose Creek Canal. We sailed and motored on to anchor in Bonners Bay on the Bay River for the night.

Hospitality of Elizabeth City, NC

Tannic acid released from decaying vegetation of the cypress and juniper tree leaves and roots makes the water look tea colored brown in the Dismal Swamp Canal. They say Priority's bow will have a brown mustache souvenir but it has been worth it.  We'll scrub it clean again.

We are preparing to enter the South Mills lock following a trawler and two more sailboats coming behind us to exit the Dismal Swamp Canal. The Canal is rich in history having been originally planned by George Washington to drain the area so it could become farmland. Then it was decided the canal was needed to move goods to market from Elizabeth City to Norfolk. It also became an escape route for the underground railroad to help free the slaves who were forced to dig it. Now we tourists keep it busy.

Our new trawler friends snapped our photo in the lock as we waited for the two sailboats to enter and tie up. No conch shells, no dogs chasing geese off the yard, no teasing of being newbies but we did have a very gentle ride back down 8 feet. It was very smooth but not as colorful with a much quieter and more serious lock master.  We missed Robert from the Deep Creek Lock.

Jay captured this image of the lock where we wait to be lowered down to continue our ride to Elizabeth City, N.C.

All lowered back down and leaving the lock.  It was interesting to read the written notes on the lock walls from folks who had traveled through before us -mostly boat names and dates.

We tied up in a slip at the Elizabeth City Town Dock where they offer 48 hour free dockage.  They listen for boats to come through the bridge and help you tie up.  They point out the places to visit, where to get things and invite you to a 4:30pm welcome party down the dock.  Very friendly, helpful and generous hoping you all will come to visit Elizabeth City.  We recommend it!  We visited the Museum and learned all about the Albemarle Sound we'll be traveling through when we leave.

Here we found a replica of a shad boat used in the Albemarle Sound for the surrounding fish industry.  Also learned about the timber and shingles shipped out of the Dismal Swamp up the Canal to market in Norfolk.

Returned to the dock for a Rose Buddies sponsored welcome party with wine, cheese & crackers for all the 25 or so boaters tied up at the town docks.  All of the ladies got a rose from the garden planted right by the dock. This hospitality tradition started with two boaters years ago who welcomed new fellow boaters who came into port .  The two men have since passed away but the Harbor of Hospitality group continues the tradition to encourage folks to visit their city.

Jay is talking with a fellow boater sitting down and a former mayor of Elizabeth City standing beside him.  The former mayor is also a boater and gave a very entertaining welcome speech to all.  The tent was perfect since we had rolling thunderstorms coming through and pouring rain during the party.  We enjoyed a quiet evening on the boat.  We are ready for bed each night, just plain tired out.  We think it could be that the planning and newness of each day takes more energy than normal days of sailing on the Bay.  We are having an "exhaustingly good" time!