The last one...

This is my last post of our African Adventures for 2014. I think I told you all that this post was going to be the catch-all for all the random pictures that I was so fond of, but that didn't fit with the subject matter of any of the previous posts. That's where I started. Then I wanted to do a slideshow because I have oh so much time for detail-oriented creative projects right now. Then I also got the idea to do another slideshow that would be a recap of all the awesome experiences we had over there that we've already shared with you guys in the posts on this blog, because if you're already working hard on one big project why not add another on the pile anyway? It'll take twice as long but I'm already working in this medium anyway, so let's just keep going I don't need free time or sleep or sanity! I'm an artist! I survive on sunsets and nail polish and macro pictures of dew-drenched spiderwebs!

Well...

That didn't last long. Eventually the two projects kind of morphed (were glommed together by a frazzled mom who actually does need occasional hits of food and sleep and finally admitted to herself that she didn't have time to create two separate musical slideshows) into one AWESOME slideshow that I humbly offer up for your viewing pleasure.

Humbly. It's awesome!



P.S. I know I've been bugging many of you with emails whenever I updated the blog with a new African post. I do not plan to continue that now that we're back in the states, but, if you would actually like to continue receiving an email notification when I add a new blog post, or if you would like to get added to that list, please email me, or email someone who knows me and I will happily shoot you a little "READ ME!" email every time I add a new post on this blog. Just let me know.

Rio Savane

Rio Savane (pronounced: Rio Savahn) is a place to get away from it all, literally, and that sounded like the kind of place we like, so we went there with some friends from Gorongosa, Andre and his wife Zamira, who you won't see much of in the pictures because she liked taking pictures more than she liked being in them. I can relate. ;-)

It was our last trip outside the park before we flew home to the states, and I think we made the most of it. We experienced the Indian Ocean, we ate crab--or rather, I ate crab while everyone else complained about how difficult it is to eat crab. Like the shell is that hard to crack open. Please.

Anyway, where was I? Oh yes. Ocean, crab dinner, interesting chat with some “interesting” people (guy sailing around the African rivers with his wife, and his ex-wife, and a sailing friend who was also female and a motivational counselor of some kind, and his kids. Yeaaaaah.) mosquitoes, cold showers in a gritty, thatched-roof bath house, coconut trees, mosquito netting over the beds, geckos on the ceiling, a boat ride to the island in high tide, and the next day a boat ride at low tide and a slog through the sandy mud to get back to the truck.

I could wax eloquent I suppose, but I’ve got so many great pictures that I think I’ll just show instead of tell.

Helicopters and Airplanes

Caden makes people smile. He just can’t help it. He’s cute, he likes to say, “Hi,” and he loves to shake people’s hands. It’s kind of an infectious friendliness.

Must be one of those… “people” person… things.

Idon’treallylikepeoplethatmuchsoIwouldn’tknow. Ahem. Anyway! Whenever we went for a walk around Chitengo he would make a point to shake the hand of everyone he saw, tourist and employee alike. He had his favorites, and there were some he was always shy around, but without exception, the two people that he would always have a smile and a loud greeting for were Mike the helicopter pilot and Janneman (pronounced Yeniman) the pilot of the little bathawk airplane. I think he was a little bit in awe of them, actually.

Mike was one of the first people in Gorongosa that Caden would let pick him up (not just willingly, but enthusiastically, as in “you drive helicopter. pick me up and take me to helicopter right now!). He could do no wrong because he had “the Red Helicopter!”

Janneman arrived about halfway through our stay in Gorongosa, but he had “the Orange Airplane” so Caden loved him too. I mean, ever since the first time Caden saw Mike’s helicopter take off he wanted to spend every minute of every day out on the airstrip, and then when Janneman arrived with his little airplane it was like an overload of awesomeness. If something was coming in for a landing, Caden wanted to be right there to see it, because as soon as it landed he wanted to be climbing all over it. After a cursory, “Hi,” and, “please,” to Mike and Janneman, he would be in the pilot’s seat, tugging on a pair of headphones and trying to push every button and flip every switch in sight. Both pilots were great about it. They would pick him up, let him play, put the headphones on him, and just let him do pretty much anything he wanted to.

Mike and Janneman were no longer just Mike and Janneman to Caden. They were joyful-shout-across-the-whole-restaurant worthy. And before we left Gorongosa both pilots gave Caden something that was more awesome to him than any elephant or lion could ever be. They both gave him (and mommy and daddy) a flight around the park, which effectively sealed his interest in any machine with a pair of wings on it.

I hope flying lessons aren’t too expensive…

Because I see them in our future.

"Take Your Son to Work" Day

Toward the end of this year’s 3-month stay in Africa, Kathleen and I decided (after a great deal of careful consideration and pondering, of course) that it was time for Caden to branch out into some manlier experiences in Gorongosa. Sure, he’s only two and half, but hey, he’s a Long! We fully expect him to sprout a beard any day now, so why limit him to playing in the dirt in Chitengo? No, it was time for a change, and thanks to Rui and one of my collared bushbuck dying for unknown reasons, that opportunity finally presented itself.

With regard to the bushbuck, her collar went into mortality mode a few weeks before we were scheduled to leave the park. Rui and I went out and found her, and although she was definitely dead, she was completely intact (i.e., not eaten by anything), and the cause of her death was unclear. Now, losing a collared animal is obviously a bad thing for my project, but given that we hadn’t left the park yet, the opportunity also existed to dart another bushbuck and put the collar back out. So, I cleaned the collar up and waited for a break in Rui’s schedule that would allow us to get the job done.

That break came a few days later. However, in addition to having enough time to go with me to dart another bushbuck, Rui also shared with Kathleen and I that one of the lion prides that currently contained a mature male, three females, and three brand new (well, about 2 months old anyway) cubs was camped out right next to the road about 45 minutes outside of Chitengo. He’d really been wanting Kathleen to have a better experience with the lions, and also had been looking for a good opportunity to bring Caden along to see his first wild lion. So, he suggested that we take the last few hours of the day and all go together to see the lions, and then go if we could dart a bushbuck as well. Needless to say, we were super appreciative, and gladly took him up on his offer!

The first stop was the lions, and when I say they were right next to the road, I mean right next to the road! 

The lionesses were lounging lazily in the sun only a few yards from Rui’s parked land cruiser, while the big male and the three cubs were a bit further back (maybe 20 yards from us). They were super relaxed and, being used to vehicles, paid little attention to us as we quietly snapped pictures and exchanged amazed glances and expressions. Quietly, that is, until Caden decided to let out one of his trademark toddler noises! Rui had generously offered to let Caden sit on his lap so he could have a good view of the lions (they were on Rui’s side), and it wasn’t long before seeing them wasn’t enough; he wanted to talk to them too! We did our best to explain that we had to be hush hush or we might scare the lions away, and it worked, sort of. In any event, the lions didn’t run away, and the experience was amazing. The four of us watched as those tiny little cubs batted one another playfully, chewed on the male’s tail, and generally just acted like young animals do, while the adults watched lazily from the sidelines. 

 

Watching the adults in their afternoon slumber, you’d never know what powerful killing machines they can really be when the time is right.

I wish I could say that Caden fully appreciated having an experience that very few adults will ever get to have. Being two, though, it wasn’t long before he lost interest, and it was left to us to soak up every bit we could of those awesome animals. Regardless of his short-lived reaction though, it certainly was special for Kathleen and I to be able to share that experience as a family, and we won’t soon forget it!

After leaving the lions, we had about 45 minutes of light left to try and find a bushbuck to dart. That’s not a lot of time, and I wasn’t super hopeful. After only a half hour or so of searching, though, luck smiled on us, and we found a female bushbuck standing on termite mound only 20 yards from the road. She hung tight for us, and as a result, both Kathleen and Caden got to watch me dart her from the passenger seat of Rui’s land cruiser. I’m glad I didn’t miss!

She ran off of course, and we didn’t think it wise for all four of us to be tromping through the bush to find and process her right as it got dark. At the same time, Rui and I both wanted Kathleen and Caden to be able to share in the experience of collaring and processing her. So, after giving enough time for the anesthesia to take effect, Rui and I went and found her, and then took turns carrying her back to the truck for processing. Caden seemed to really enjoy petting her fur, and gently touching her ears and nose, and we got a few great pictures of all three of us with her. All in all, it was another great experience for the three of us at Gorongosa, and a fine evening by all accounts!

GPS collar: $2,100. Dart gun: $3,500. Portable ultrasound: $25,000. Having my wife and son with me for darting and collaring an African antelope: priceless!

Big Five or Little Two?

Well, I guess technically our Gorongosa adventure is finished, since we’re already back in the states now, but I still have a few more Africa posts to catch up on…. starting with this one. This post is all about cute animals, though you might wonder at my definition of cute when you see what the first one is.

So, if you went to Africa and you had a list of the animals you wanted to see the most, what would be at the top of your list? I’m guessing one of the big five, or maybe a giraffe or a cheetah. They’re all awesome choices, but they ain’t at the top of my list.

My list starts with a pangolin, and I got to see one (and hold it!) because of the brave efforts of many people in Gorongosa who worked together to rescue it from a poacher.

I don’t know all the details, actually I don’t know hardly any of the details, but what I do know is that a man actually went undercover into the local jail to get information from the poacher’s incarcerated friend and to set up a meeting so his “people” could “buy” the pangolin. The whole thing worked beautifully.

 

 These rare critters are in high demand in China, where the scales are used in traditional medicines, the meat is a delicacy and the bodies are stuffed and sold as souvenirs. The pangolin and the rhino are kind of suffering the same plight.

The pangolin and its baby were rescued and the poachers were sent to jail. Score one for the good guys!

You see that grin? That is the grin of an excited person, right there.

The second animal is one that I never even thought about putting on my list and it ended up being the one I saw the most of this summer.

A few weeks before we headed home, Rui came to our cabin with a bucket and asked me if I wanted to babysit. Inside the bucket was a little pouched mouse that one of the other Princeton scientists had been taking care of. It had been injured by a live trap and eventually lost its tail. The scientist gave it antibiotics and took care of it for a while, intending to release it again, but it was caught so young that it got used to her and couldn’t be released. We could, I suppose, get into some kind of ethical debate about animals that should or should not be kept as pets, but instead, I’m just gonna show you some cute pictures. 'Cause he is such a cute little thing!

I had a lot of fun taking care of this little guy. To give him exercise I would take him into the bathroom, shut the door and let him run around on the floor. There was nothing he could get into and no way he could hurt himself so it was the perfect place for him. It was so much fun to watch him scurry all over the floor, exploring the bathmat and Caden's little pail and shovel. Then he would come over, climb up my leg for a moment, and then scurry around again.

After about a week I suddenly realized we hadn't named him yet! I asked Caden what he thought mousie's name should be and he said, "Rui Mouse."

 

Meet Rui Mouse.

He's still in Africa, living with Rui now.

Of Longs and Lions

Well, given that Kathleen has continued to shoulder the majority of the burden for keeping our blog up to date with entertaining anecdotes about our adventures in Mozambique, we both thought it was about time for me to get off my lazy rear end and help out a bit. So, although Kathleen has her own story to contribute in the middle of this post, for the most part you all will once again have to suffer through some of my far less creative writing style.

Over the past couple of weeks here, we’ve managed to have three really amazing experiences with the lions of Gorongosa, and so we both thought that it would be appropriate to focus this post on the king of the beasts. Enjoy!

Encounter #1 – Lion 1, Nyala 0

The two major animal research projects currently underway at Gorongosa are my own study of Gorongosa’s antelope, and an in-house project that’s aimed at collecting baseline data on Gorongosa’s small lion population. Well, a few weeks ago our two projects intersected for the first time in a cool, albeit unexpected, way. I was out early one morning with Rui Branco, the park veterinarian, looking for nyala (one of the three antelope species I’m studying) to dart, when completely by chance we came across a young lioness lying in the open next to a water hole. She was super calm, and let us drive to within about 20 yards of her to check her out and take pictures. We soaked in the experience for a little while, and then went on our way. About 10 hours later, in the early evening of that same day, we happened to be back in the same general area, so we thought we’d take a look and see if she was still there, just for fun. We drove around the water hole for a bit without seeing any sign of her, but just as we were about to leave, we noticed some movement in the tall (like, 6 feet tall) grass nearby. We slowly approached in Rui’s land cruiser, and low and behold, there was our lioness…on a fresh kill! Closer inspection with the binoculars quickly revealed that the animal she was feeding on was, in fact, a nyala. So, score one for the lion project, and zero for the antelope project!

This is one of the better pictures we were able to get of her feeding on her freshly killed nyala. Good thing I didn't have a collar on that one!

Anyway, she once again let us approach to within about 20 yards of her, and we watched her feed for a little while, which was really cool (although not for the faint of heart, that’s for sure). After she’d begun to fill up, though, she got curious about us, and decided to leave the safety of the tall grass to come check us out!

 

At this point she was sitting less than 10 yards from us.

She walked to within about 10 feet of the truck, sat down on her haunches, and proceeded to give us a good looking over.

Although she was certainly curious, she obviously didn't find us nearly as interesting as we found her!

It was at that time that Rui simply said, “don’t make any sudden movements.” His warning, of course, was designed to keep us from scaring her away, but the way it was worded gave a bit of a fright to our guest for the evening, a young graduate student from California who accompanied us in the hopes of getting to see us dart a nyala. Eventually the lioness had her fill of us and wandered back into the grass. What a cool experience it was though!

Encounter #2 – I saw a thing!

I guess it’s my turn now. :-)

Ryan gave me another mommy day last week. This is the first you’re hearing about it because we’ve been busy. I’mstillnewatthiswholescheduledblogpostthingdon’tjudgeme!

Ahem.

So, anyway, he spent the day with Caden (brave man) so that I could go out into the park with Rui and several others and look for some lions! Whee! I’ve been in the park a few times now, but never to specifically track down a lion. It involved getting up early, a lot of driving around, most of it off road, and most of it following a very roundabout kind of path, since there are few roads in Gorongosa. The GPS said the lion was Thisaway, so we went Thisaway, road or no road, and we had to drive around termite mounds and trees and brush and suddenly uneven terrain, etc. Along the way we got to see many other cool animals that we’ve already shown you guys so many pictures of (don’t wanna bore you with another bucketful of kudu, water buck, and nyala pictures). Well... I'll include one... 'cause it's funny.

 

Posing like a boy band.

Actually it’s kind of funny that we kept seeing so many nyala. Ryan and Rui are working soooo hard to get those last two nyala collars out, and we were seeing nyala left and right when we weren’t even looking for them! I am not yet trained enough to recognize them on sight but on this trip I always knew if the animal we’d just passed was a nyala because Rui would start muttering to himself like a government employee who’s one step away from going postal. The other two people in the car could recognize nyala on sight and they took great pains to point out every single one with childish glee. 

That's Tara in the backseat with me. Between us is a dart gun (not loaded). And there's the back of Rui's head up front. The steering wheel is on the right side of the land cruiser.

Seriously, we saw so many! Ryan and Rui just aren’t working hard enough…

Wow. If looks could kill…

Anywhooo! After several hours of purposeful meandering we did finally get to see an honest to goodness African lion! We got as close as we could without spooking him off, and he wasn’t too close to the Land Cruiser, but he was actually a little closer than my camera makes it look like though. ;-p

His name is Njenga, and we went looking for him because there is a female with cubs that is part of his pride and Rui wanted to find them because the female’s GPS collar isn’t working anymore and needs to be changed. No luck with the lioness or the cubs, but we still got to see Njenga, which was very cool! He’s a very laidback kind of lion because he’s used to being viewed by Paola and by tourists, so he just sat there in the long grass and watched us watching him.

Peekaboo...

We left him a short while later (after all of us had gotten the pictures we wanted) and drove around a little more, hoping that the female would show up if we gave her some more time. When we went back she still wasn’t there, so we had to call it a day at that point. Not as exciting a day as Ryan’s two lion stories, but still pretty cool for me. ;-)

 

Encounter #3 – The new coolest thing I’ve ever done

OK, my turn again.You might remember from the last post I took the lead on awhile back that in the process of darting antelope for my project, I got the huge bonus of getting to watch Rui dart and collar a lioness for the lion research project. The GPS collar that went on that lioness was the 5^th of 6 collars that the lion project currently has, and the sixth and final collar was reserved for a very specific purpose. The biologist that oversees the lion project (Paola Bouley is her name) located a “coalition” of two young male lions last September that had never before been seen in the park. So, for a variety of reasons, getting a GPS collar on one of those males had been her primary goal since March of this year. Unfortunately these two lions are super elusive, and although Paola and Rui have spent countless hours over the past few months searching for them both night and day, they’d only seen them a couple of times, and Rui was never presented with the opportunity to dart either of them.

So, fast forward a few months. Rui and I were out looking for nyala (yep, still have two more collars to get out on those stupid things!). It was mid-afternoon, and it was just the two of us, when Rui got a call from someone who thought he might have seen one of these males near one of the park roads. He sent a picture and sure enough, it was one of the two they badly wanted to collar. Unfortunately the guy had seen the lion at 7:00 that morning, so it had been about 8 hours already. Still, lions spend most of the day laying in the shade and sleeping, so we figured it would be worth a look anyway. So, we set the nyala hunt aside and went to look for a lion. Amazingly, when we got to the area where he was sighted earlier that day, it only took us a few minutes to find him. And that was when Rui made my day (or maybe my year even) with one simple question: “you wanna do it?” Hmmm, let’s see, do I want to dart a male African lion in the middle of the Mozambican wilderness…ABSO-FREAKIN-LUTELY!

As amazing of an opportunity as that was, though, it quickly turned into a pretty high-pressure situation. Remember, first of all, that Rui and Paola had been trying to collar this lion for months, and that the lion project’s last GPS collar was reserved for him. In addition, Rui only had enough drugs to put together two more lion darts, and apparently you can't get those specific drugs in Mozambique, so when he runs out it's gonna be weeks before he can get more. No worries though, I can handle all that ;) The lion is pretty wary, but he lets us slowly drive to within darting distance. I make a good shot from 20 yards, and...the dart bounces off of him! Rui said he'd never seen that happen with a lion before. We got a great video of that whole sequence, but unless we can find some way to sensor it, we probably won’t put it on the blog, because Rui used a few choice words when that dart bounced off that I’d hate to expose any of our friends and loved ones to. Anyway, the lion proceeded to pick up the dart and chew on it, and we had to chase him around in the land cruiser and harass him to get him to drop it before he swallowed the needle, the whole time thinking that he would take off for good because we were pushing him. Unbelievably, he didn’t swallow the needle, finally dropped the dart, and laid back down again. It took a few tries to get close enough again, because he didn't like us too much at that point and kept getting up and moving as we approached. Finally, though, we got within 20 yards again in the tall grass. Now, however, we are officially on the last of Rui’s lion drugs, so if something goes wrong with this shot then the opportunity he and Paola have waited months for is lost. Talk about pressure! I couldn’t actually dart him where he was lying because the grass was too tall, so we had to just wait until he stood in the hopes that when he did, he’d stand long enough for me to dart him. Well, he finally stood, but when he did it was walk off directly away from us. I took the opportunity and hit him with the second dart just as he began to walk off. Talk about a high pressure shot on a moving lion! Man was I glad when it hit him good and injected. We also got an extremely brief (but still cool) video of that shot, which we’ve posted below for you.

This was the view I had shortly before he stood and I darted him the second time.

Oh yeah, a nicely placed dart right in the hindquarter! And a male lion wondering what in the world just happened, and whether the people in the truck are somehow responsible for it...

Starting to get sleepy now, but definitely not sleepy enough to handle!

The final interesting piece of that roller coaster ride is that he was much bigger-bodied than we expected, and the drugs didn’t fully anesthetize him! After 20 minutes he was still able to hold his head up, which doesn’t bode real well for handling when it comes to something like a lion. As I mentioned, Rui was out of anethestics for lions at that point. Fortunately, though, he had a mild sedative on hand that we figured would probably be enough to finish the job. So, I got to dart him a third time (this time in the front shoulder because of his position), and shortly thereafter he was sleeping nicely. Given that this wasn’t my project, and there was a lot to potentially lose here, it was super nice of Rui to let me have this opportunity. It was, without a doubt, the opportunity of a lifetime for someone like me, and an experience I’ll never forget!

A happy biologist with his very first anesthetized lion!

In this picture you can also see the third and final dart I hit him with, which I had to put in the front shoulder because of the position he was in.



 
That's one big paw, one big head, and a lot of sharp teeth!


The moment of truth!

Do Not Want!

So there I was, in the bathroom minding my own business, doing bathroom related things, when I happened to glance up...

At first I didn't know what it was, and the next day when we related the whole story to Rui, the park vet, he was quick to say that it can be painful if one bites you, but they're harmless, really. I was quick to point out that it wouldn't matter if it had traipsed through the room handing out flowers and quoting Shakespear's sonnets to his beloved with a voice as soothing as Morgan Freeman's, it would still look like some not so little hell-spawn progeny of Shelob to me. Rui also pointed out that what I'd found was just a little one.

I have a special hate-filled corner of my little, grinch-like heart reserved for Rui, but that's okay, because he knows it.
 
Ahem.

Back to the bathroom.

I saw it by the ceiling, tucked up like a little velvety oblong lump; a black lump trying to be politely inconspicuous on a Stark. White. Wall.

Not sure what made it think, "Best. Hiding place. Ever!" but it was wrong, and I got to be the one to play surprise hide and seek while on a bathroom break. Lucky... me...

My thought process in the two seconds it took for me to realize what it was, went something like this:

What's that?

Is that a...?

No, it's too big.

Wait...

Wrong! WRONG! DO NOT WANT!

"RYAN!"

I had to leave the room! Ryan had to call the resident entomologist because nether of us have experience extracting something this big from the corner of the bathroom. He, being an entomologist for a very good reason, was quite excited to come and catch it for us. Ryan stayed in the bathroom to watch; I waited outside, wishing Piotr had come over with a flamethrower instead of a butterfly net and a zip-lock baggy. He caught it quickly though, and because I love you guys so much and want you to be able to experience as much of this trip as I can possibly share with you, I helped Ryan take a good picture of it.

That's a AA battery. Just in case you were wondering.

And because it's a national park, we had to release it outside, alive. So now it's out there... somewhere, and I'm sure it's just waiting for the chance to sneak back onto my bathroom wall and give me another emotional aneurism.

Seafood & Souvenirs

Thursday, July 17, 2014

After about 6 weeks in the park, we were invited on a trip to Beira (the second-biggest city in Mozambique) last weekend by one of the other people here at the park. His name is Andre, and he’s an agricultural specialist who works for the park and helps local people improve the efficiency and sustainability of their farming practices. Anyway, he was going there himself for a little R & R, and knew that we wanted to get out and see more of Mozambique, so he invited us to come along. He has friends in Beira and he knows the town well, so it was perfect opportunity for us. We left the park Sunday morning and got back Monday afternoon.

It was a short trip, but pretty cool all the same.

The drive is about three hours, and Caden didn't need any entertainment the whole way there. Being in a car and driving around is something he's been begging for, for weeks now, and he soaked up the whole experience, staring out the window at everything he could see. At one point he and Andre had a little game going. Andre would give the car horn a "Beep Beep," and Caden would copy and say, "Beep Beep!" This went on for a while. I'm not sure who was having more fun.

 Public transportation, Mozambique style. I think the goat has the best seat on the van. ;-)

We got to eat great food at several seaside restaurants, we got to do some souvenir shopping (a few very cool wood carvings are now on the shelf in our cabin!) and grocery shopping, and most importantly, Caden got to see the ocean for the first time ever!

And it was the Indian Ocean too!

When we arrived in town, the first thing we did was head to a cool little restaurant that was right on the beach. We had beef roast. It was good.

The original restaurant burned down a few years ago. What they did was convert the old store room into the new restaurant.

The restaurant. 

The beach.

Caden didn’t waste any time letting us know what he wanted to do, and he started exploring the beach and the water in the typical Caden fashion...he went straight for the ocean with no fear, which caused mommy a bit of stress in the beginning. Luckily though, we had our handy little baby leash, which gave Caden the opportunity to explore without giving mommy a heart attack. It wasn’t long before a knee-high wave (knee high on a two-year-old) bowled him over, and he was a little more thoughtful about the water after that. One of the funniest things about all this was that he was totally naked, other than the baby leash. The few local kids that were running around playing in the water were doing the same thing, so we thought hey, why not! It was so much fun watching that little naked toddler run around in the sand and the ocean for more than three hours, and it was an experience that we’ll not soon forget. And we weren’t the only ones that enjoyed it! The local Mozambicans were fascinated by that little naked white kid, and we were approached twice by people who wanted to know if we could take a picture of them with him. He played with some of the other kids for a little while, and also got to pet a really nice dog that a lady was walking on the beach.

 Baby leash!

The wet sand fascinated him!

Can't stop to chat, Dad, I got things to explore!

The baby and the doggy both have similar leashes... probably for very similar reasons. ;-)

 

He splashes nature and nature splashes back.

 Don't step on my sand!

Marching to the ocean, gonna make a splash!

Hi there.

 Naked baby on the loose!

What a fun day, and it's only lunch time.

For dinner we went to another really cool restaurant on the beach. It's called Club Nautica. You have to pay to get in. The food is worth it though.

 At this one we got a seafood platter and a pizza. Pizza! It's been so long since we've had a good pizza. I miss Papa Murphy's so much! :-(

Funny coffee-related pictures in their menu. 

If the one on the top left was a tea cup instead of a coffee mug, I would wear it on a t-shirt!

The moon was amazingly bright that night. I tried to take a picture of it, but sadly, my camera wasn't quite up to the challenge.

A better pic.

Beira has been described to me as what Portugal would look like after the apocalypse, and I believe it.

It’s a big town, but almost all of it looks like Downtown Slum. There’s garbage piled up here and there, the buildings are all old and many are abandoned or full of squatters, the people are a strange mix of everything from business suites to traditional capulanas.

Random picture of a colorful wall separating the road from the ocean. Couldn't decide where it would fit best so I'm just throwing it here.

The one exception to the slumminess of Beira (is that even a word?) would be this street that Andre drove us through, where they've tried to preserve the buildings that were built by the Portuguese back when it was a colony.

Imagine how they must have looked when they were new.

We drove by the Grande Hotel. What a sight! It was built by the Portuguese, but taken over by impoverished squatters after Mozambique gained independence in 1975.

We drove past, but didn't stop for the grand tour.

What a history that building has known! Much like the rest of Beira and Mozambique in general, it has seen the best and the worst of the people who reside in it. 

Let me switch tracks and spend a moment on something more bright and cheerful: the capulana. The capulana is the traditional dress for women in Mozambique. It is a long piece of fabric that comes in many colors, shades and designs and it is gorgeous! The crafter in me is just dying to get her hands on a few yards of that lovely fabric. Now I only have one picture of women in capulanas that I took with my own little camera.

Here's my one picture. ;-)

This is mostly because I didn’t want to be one of those “annoying tourists,” who takes pictures of all the locals, (aren't their capulanas gorgeous, though?) but I also didn’t have a lot of opportunity for pictures anyway since we didn’t do a whole lot of walking around in Beira. In a two day trip we didn’t have time for much other than, “Okay, we want to go here so let’s drive to it on the way out of the park” and “We want to go there, so let’s drive there on the way back to the park.” At the same time, though, I really want you guys to see more examples of capulanas, so I found this cool pdf, written by a woman living in Mozambique, that explains many of the ways a girl can use this amazingly versatile fabric, and here’s a video slideshow of African women in capulanas. I didn't make it so don't gimme credit.

I’m told there’s a good shop in Chimoio for capulanas. I want to go there. I want to go there with lots of money. Badly.

Anyway, back to Beira. As I said, it was a short trip, but we had fun, got some great seafood and some very cool souvenirs. And on the way back to the park, we stopped at this convenient store for lunch, and had hamburgers.

Glorious hamburgers!