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A trip to California wine country cured my marathon training burnout and reminded me why I love the sport.
Marathon runners love to talk about how challenging the training can be. Forget chafing or nutrition; sometimes the toughest part is just finding enough roadway. The only thing more mind-numbing than running 18 miles on a high school track is spending two hours on a treadmill. I often run along the Los Angeles River, an expansive path I’d once found charming for reasons I cannot remember. The “river” (more like a trickle) was the backdrop for an apocalyptic motorcycle chase in Terminator 2. And on a cloudy day it still looks dystopian. A training route has to be safe, well-lit, and long. Is it too much to ask that it also be, ya know, pretty?
Thankfully, a bunch of hotels in wine country—stateside and abroad—have begun catering to runners craving scenic paths. At Appellation Healdsburg, which opened earlier this year and is surrounded by some of Sonoma’s oldest vines, guests can go for guided runs hosted by the hotel’s general manager, David Emig. Chateau de Lussac, a ten-room property in Bordeaux, France, recently introduced a bespoke program for athletes that includes a dedicated running coach.
This isn’t strictly a high-end trend either. The Courtyard by Marriott San Luis Obispo, in the heart of California’s Central Coast wine region, just completed a year-long, $6 million renovation, and is now offering travelers a morning trail run followed by a day of tastings in Paso Robles. And the news couldn’t have come soon enough: I’m training for my third marathon, and I hit the wall early, struggling to ramp up my weekly mileage. For the first time in years, I was starting to think I wasn’t just souring on my daily route, but on the sport itself.
“What keeps people away from the marathon isn’t race day,” says Chris Bennett, Nike’s global head coach of running and author of This Is About Running, This Is Not About Running. “It’s all of the days leading up to race day. It’s the starting line on a Tuesday—in week 9 of 18—where you’re thinking, ‘Do I really have another nine-mile run ahead of me?’” Mixing up your runs is paramount, Bennett says. “Sometimes that means getting out of Dodge.” So I booked a running trip to wine country in May, searching for a hard reboot and a reminder of why I’d signed up for the marathon at all.
(Photo: Bryan Banducci)
My solo tour started in Lodi, California, a laid back, Central Valley town about 45 minutes from Sacramento, known for its jammy Zinfandels. (If wine isn’t your thing, Lodi is also the birthplace of A&W Root Beer.) Dave Phillips, the owner of Michael David Winery, is a fifth-generation grape grower who ran his first marathon in high school. These days, he’s known to roll calls while running through fields. “I’m one of those guys that trains slow to race fast,” says Phillips, 63.
