
My 4 AM Hike to CafĂŠ Mycelium
There is a phantom haunting Portlandâs coffee scene, and it tastes like earth, rain, and single-origin coffee.
For weeks, whispers of CafĂŠ Mycelium have been floating through the aisles of the Hollywood Farmers Market and echoing off the brick walls of the Pearl. I thought it was just another urban legend… like the mythical subterranean vegan donut shop on Hawthorne. But then a friend, sworn to secrecy, slipped me a rusted shortwave radio and a frequency number on a damp napkin.
“Four AM,” she whispered. “Bring your own mug. The more creative, the better.”
So, there I was at 3:55 AM on a Tuesday, sitting at my kitchen table in my pajamas, staring at a static-hissing emergency radio. Exactly at 4:00 AM, the static broke. A synthetic, robotic voice cut through the white noise, rattling off a string of coordinates before abruptly fading back into the hiss. I plugged them into my GPS.
Forest Park. Deep in the Wildwood Trail.
I grabbed my headlamp, zipped up my jacket, and grabbed the lopsided ceramic mug Iâd spent all my spare change on… and…
Hiking through Forest Park in the pre-dawn mist is an eerie experience. The Douglas Firs loom like giants in the fog, and every snapped twig sounds like a mountain lion. But after two miles of damp, muddy switchbacks, I smelled it before I saw it: the rich, complex aroma of freshly bloomed coffee mingling with the unmistakable scent of damp soil.
I pushed through a thicket of sword ferns and there it was. CafĂŠ Mycelium.
There was no cash register or menu. Just a barista named Silas (clad in a heavy waxed-canvas apron and a rainbow-knit beanie) standing behind a massive, moss-draped nurse log that served as his counter. A battered kettle sat on a tiny, silent camping stove.
I handed over my mug. Silas inspected it, gave a solemn nod of approval, and set to work.
The process was mesmerizing. He poured hot water over the grounds with surgical precision. As the coffee dripped, he explained that the roast was lightly infused with a proprietary blend of locally foraged Lion’s Mane and Turkey Tail mushrooms. Nothing hallucinogenic, and thank goodness, since this experience and my lack of sleep make it trippy enough as-is.
“Do you take oat milk?” he asked, his voice barely above a whisper. I nodded. Silas reached under the log, pulled out a glass jar of soaked oats, wrapped them in a square of unbleached cheesecloth, and hand-squeezed the oat milk directly into my mug.
I took a sip. It was a revelation. The acidity of the coffee was perfectly balanced by the savory, umami richness of the mycelium, finished with the raw, creamy texture of the freshly pressed oats.
By the time I finished my coffee, the sun was just beginning to pierce the forest canopy. A few early-morning trail runners jogged past, completely oblivious to the clandestine barista just ten feet off the trail. Silas was already packing his copper kettle into a weathered canvas rucksack.
“See you in the static,” he murmured, before melting into the green shadows of the forest.
CafĂŠ Mycelium is out there, Portland. You just have to be willing to listen to the noise to find the signal.
















