




This summer we spend a week in the Vancouvers, where we eat every fish, drink every beer, hug every tree, kiss every cloud, climb up every sunbeam, roll down every mountain, count every pine needle, dodge every raindrop.
While wandering the West End we pass a busy dessert shop whose walk-up window is accented on one side by an enormous 3D vanilla soft-serve cone with a handwritten paper sign taped to it reading: Please Do Not Touch This.
At the Vancouver Art Gallery we reverently view a great many tree paintings by Emily Carr, who signed her later canvases Emily Carr and her earlier ones M. Emily Carr, M for Millie, though I prefer to imagine that it’s M for Memily.
Some Vancouvers we visit: Downtown Vancouver, North Vancouver, West Vancouver, East Vancouver, Familiar Vancouver, Strange Vancouver, Future Vancouver, Past Vancouver, Collapse Of Civilization Vancouver, Moodyville.
Roughly halfway up the Sea-to-Sky Highway, on the outskirts of Squamish, we stop at a place apostrophelessly named Narwhals Ice Cream and enjoy some homemade ice cream that as far as I can tell is 100% narwhal-free.
Downtown we sample meads earthy of infusion (lavender, lingonberry, wild cherry bark) and one of us buys a used book whose first page declares: Now, look, I have wearied of my wisdom, like the bee that has gathered too much honey.
Decadent sushi, Dutch French toast, North Van southern BBQ, Commercial Drive Cuban, wilderness deli wraps, burning-dorm poke bowls, fruity beers with tough-guy names, my first cups of actual coffee in eight actual years.
I see on the wall next to an installation in the Vancouver Art Gallery’s central stairwell a small printed advisory that I kind of wish could be posted in all art galleries everywhere: Please watch your step. This work may be disorienting.
At English Bay Beach Park I watch a crow swoop down and land with malice aforethought directly on a seagull, knocking the seagull off a picnic table, and then I swear the crow looks right at me and shrugs its feathers meanly.
The Vancouvers’ forests are oceans, their trees are mountains, their rains are tides, and their coastlines are storms; the Vancouvers’ rocks are maps, their roots are clocks, their waves are directions, and their skies are instructions.


















